Cruising the Mississippi on the Creole Queen.

Jazz and Dinner Cruise on the Creole Queen. 

Sipping a glass of wine and watching the sun set over New Orleans.

Click for slideshow:    Creole Queen

Cruising the Mississippi on the Creole Queen.

Jazz and Dinner Cruise on the Creole Queen. 

Sipping a glass of wine and watching the sun set over New Orleans.

Click for slideshow:    Creole Queen

Monday Spetemebr 19th. New Orleans Cemeteries and History Lesson.

New Orleans' fascination with Cemeteries.

It is Monday and my first free day after three days sitting in conference sessions all day and trying to sneak in an hour or two here and there.

We decide to go on a walking tour of the Garden District. This area is next to The French Quarter, set apart by Canal Street. The French Quarter was the home of the Creole population of New Orleans. Creole, it is said, referred to anyone born in the colonies of French, black or native background - often mixed.

 

As the Americans came down from the north - most of European background - English, Swedish, German- they were ostracized by the Creole. The Creole did not allow them to integrate and the Americans did not so much want to integrate as to take over. Eventually they began their own settlement, purchasing plantations and other property and building European styled homes. There was no love lost between the Creoles and the Americans.

We ride the historic St. Charles streetcar to the Garden District. We rattle and clang down tree lined streets, past historic landmarks and around Lee's Circle. As we lurch and creak along our driver calls out the names of upcoming stops and attractions. "World War Two Museum" he calls out in his lilting Southern Drawl. Our stop is Washington Street.

General Lee Circle.

We start our tour at Lafayette #1 Cemetery. Cemeteries are a big deal in New Orleans. There is a fascination and acceptance of death as a natural state and process of life. Because there was so much

 

death from sickness, plagues, floods, whatever, the people accepted death as inevitable and celebrate life with gusto.  Our guide, Sarah, is one of those who share this fascination. She eagerly leads us into the aged Cemetery, pointing out the rows of mausoleums and tombs. You see, New Orleans is below sea level in many areas. This Cemetery is the high spot at 8 1/2 ft above sea level. When people would dig a grave it would fill with water before they could turn around and shovel the soil back into the grave. (Hence the phrase 'watery grave') Eventually they borrowed from the Egyptian ways of using above ground tombs or mausoleums. Families would buy a spot and erect a mausoleum where all family members would be interred. Though the cemetery was filled in only 20 years (back in the 1800s) family members are still added to the crypts.  It is also interesting that if a crypt is neglected and not maintained for a period of ten years, it will be resold.

There are large group-type tombs. For example, a Fire Department might have a large plot where any of its members could be interred. We saw one specifically for orphan boys.

Embalming is not required in this older cemetery so bodies can be interred just wrapped in muslin and their natural state. Now remember, New Orleans temperatures range around 90-100 degrees with humidity that rises to 95% in the summer months. Yes, it does get a bit ripe!

Leaving the Cemetery we head on to the Garden District where the American settlers created their section. Here the beautiful stately mansions line the streets under towering oaks, magnolias and myrtle trees. The architecture is European - heavy with columns, beautiful stained glass windows, and ornate cast iron fences.

This is where the wealthy plantation owners lived. Most have been meticulously preserved and maintained. Some now owned by celebreties like John Goodman, Anne Rice, Sandra Bullock and Brad Pitt.

 This plantation house was built by a wealthy General for his young trophy wife. She was from Iowa and it was said he had this fence created (with the corn stalks) to remind her of Iowa. It is more likely that it was to represent Native American harvest with its corn, pumpkins, etc. This house was purchased years ago for $84,000 and is now being sold for around $4.8Million. Nice profit.

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 These columns are very typical of the homes build in this area, the architects being of European training.

 Sandra Bullock owns this house but is seldom in New Orleans. She lets other movie people stay there when they are in town.

 This is the oldest home in the District, showing some disrepair now. It is owned by someone in the movie business and used for filming movies.

Tonight we are on a Riverboat Crusie. ComeWith Me.....

From Jewelery to Jazz... in New Orleans' French Market.

Exploring the French Market.

Wade through the cheap Mardi Gras beads and masks, past the knock-off handbags and predictable logo'd T-shirts and you are sure to find the hidden gems.``

Maybe its the intricate copper pendants, painstakingly crafted from scraps of metal and tin salvaged from debris of Hurricane Katrina. Or one-of-a-kind custom bracelets made from the guitar strings of local street musicians, the callouses on the artist's fingers speak to the difficulty working with the stiff and unyielding material.

Everywhere artisans see beauty in unexpected items and places and New Orleans is no exception.

Here New Orleans' famed French Market runs for 6 city blocks along the riverfront from Jackson Square to the Esplanade, bordered between Decatur and N. Peters Streets.

The Market finds its roots as a Native American trading post, where back in 1784, authorities decreed that all retailing activity be conducted in this one spot. Having survived hurricanes and the test of time, the Market remains, modernized in 1936 to 1938 to resemble the present date structure - rows of long, warehouse-like buildings, roofed to protect from the elements but open-sided to permit airflow and access to the surrounding area. Each building houses row upon row of tables and kiosks offering every imaginable novelty, craft or souvenir.

Like Valerie at Bi-Valves by Val, offering meticulous and detailed scenes hand-painted on the inside of discarded local oyster shells. The tiny dioramas are exquisite; I marvel at  the colors, rich and vibrant, some including sparkling and glittering accents. "That's because I use exclusively nail polish to do the painting," Valerie explains. "That gives the color and sheen and durability I need." They are indeed unique. As Val explains, no one has been able to emulate her technique, it is just too tedious and no one has bothered to take the time or effort. She has been doing this for 12 years.

Passing into the next building I encounter the Food Building. Here you can pick up Cajun and Creole spices, fresh fruits and vegetables or a plate of spicy shrimp or fish.

The unmistakable beat of jazz beckons, drawing me further in, past the photo-imprinted tiles, tropical plants and hand-thrown pottery. The whine a blues guitar is nearer now. I stop, listening and watching the musician's talented fingers skimming across the strings. Dropping into the welcoming cobalt blue bistro stools at the Gazebo Café, we sample the specialty, Daiquiri Ice Cream, tapping to the irresistible beat and enjoying the respite from the humidity and heat.

Continuing, we visit the impressive golden statue of Saint Joan of Arc, patron saint of New Orleans, a gift from France to the city.   Lastly, we make our way to Santa's Quarters on Decatur Street. I love browsing through Christmas-themed shops even if it is hovering around 30 degrees outside.


Finally, we wander back toward Canal Street and the hotel, following the walkways of Riverfront Park along the banks of the Mississippi.

The Mighty Mississippi

The Mighty Mississippi......

I had  a 2 hour break yesterday for lunch. Grabbing my camera and a quick street dog, I hurry out to explore a little more of New Orleans. I decide to head toward the Riverfront, eager to see the Mississippi River.

This mighty river runs for over 2000 miles from Minnesota all the way to the Gulf of Mexico. The Mississippi has been a critical part of the existence of New Orleans, both for personal and commercial transportation.

Just a few blocks away, I quickly make my way. It has been raining this morning and with the stifling temperature it is muggy and humid. The sun is trying to poke out from the blanket of remaining clouds. Around a corner the spontaneous jazz again. I stop to listen to an impromptu session on a side street, then continue on.

There it is, Riverfront Park. I hurry across to the pier and am greeted by the River.

A large barge makes it way toward the expansive bridge in the distance.

A ferry, reminiscent of the famous steamboats, shuttles passengers back and forth between downtown New Orleans and the island of Algiers.





A red brick walkway curves along the river, lined with lamp posts sporting colorful banners featuring such attractions as the Butterfly Insectorium.

The promenade is quite empty this time of day. Three brave tourists scurry by on Segways. I think how much fun that would be.  A lone business man eats his paper bag lunch under the shade of a red umbrella.

A glance at my watch tells me it is time. I will come back another day and explore it further but for now I smile and head back, stopping briefly at the Starbucks along the way for a much needed Peach Green Tea Lemonade (Half sweet of course!) and to pick up my habitual Starbucks souvenir mug of New Orleans.

"If you brought your Mama here, what would you recommend?"

That's the question we ask the young hostess outside of the Creole House restaurant just down Canal Street from our hotel. It is drizzling and I am hungry from an information packed day sitting in a frigid conference room.

A quick glance and the smiling hostess points to the Cajun Redfish. "My Mama loves fish and this is the best. This is what I would suggest for her."  The equally young waitress joins in. Without hesitation, she too recommends the same dish. Redfish, she continues, is a wonderfully mild, meaty fish, flavourful but not fishy.  And definitely a signature dish for New Orleans. I am sold.

We settle in and I order the Redfish while my companion opts for Oysters and Jambalaya. How much more New Orleans can you get? There are Oyster bars on every corner and at least two on every street in between.

Jeremiah is our server, young, friendly and very accommodating. Noticing the preoccupation of most patrons with catching the latest on their phones, Jeremiah informs us, "I have not had a phone for 2 years." That seems astounding, especially for a young person. "Why is that?" I am curious. "I made some bad choices when I was tied to my phone," he explains, " so I decided I wanted to live my life a different way. I don't miss it," he continues, " it is better this way." A very astute observation for one so young!

The redfish did not disappoint. Flavourful but not spicy or fishy. Nicely panko breaded with a creamy Cajun sauce, served with spinach and mushrooms. The oysters also live up to the promise and we devour every tasty morsel, only to be confronted with the dessert choices.

Jeremiah rattles off the options. I hear only 'Pecan Crumble with caramel sauce and ice cream'. "If y'all can't finish it, I will be pleased to help you out," offers the smiling Jeremiah. It is huge. We feel that might certainly be an option. But, one bite in we know that's not gonna happen!  Before I can snap a photo, we are scraping the last drops from the plate. Sorry, that's all I got!






Slowly making our way back to the hotel, full, satisfied and a bit uncomfortable we chat about the day, looking forward to tomorrow when I will have a free morning to explore.

Come with me.....

Spontaneous outbursts of jazz......

It's hot, sticky and muggy here in New Orleans.

It was rather late by the time I arrived at my hotel in New Orleans but I couldn't wait to experience it. I had, of course heard about New Orleans.... Mardi Gras, Hurricane Katrina, the Mississippi River. But I wasn't sure what to expect, especially in non-Mardi Gras season. Would it still be a massive non-stop party place?

It had been raining off and on for the last several days and the temperature hovered around 30 degrees (that's 90 for my American friends) so the minute I stepped out of the airport the humidity hit me. It shrouded me like a damp towel, making it difficult to breathe until I adjusted.

Heading out now from my hotel, the sun was setting and the full moon hung over the towering buildings in the French Quarter.  Making our way down Canal Street toward the infamous Bourbon Street I thought, "oh, this isn't exactly what I envisioned. It's not as boisterous and colorful as I thought it would be."  Then I turned the corner onto Bourbon Street. "Now this is what I expected!"

The music filled the streets. Jazz, Blues. A single musician playing a saxophone here, a full brass ensemble outside the doors to a bar or restaurant there.

People of all shapes, colors and descriptions spilled into the streets. Restaurants with doors wide open, inviting passerbys in. Walk up bars where you could grab a beer, a bourbon or whatever else libation appealed.  Gentlemen's clubs with scantily clad ladies leaning in the doorways, inviting, beckoning, tempting...

A group of young women, all wearing wreaths of flowers on their heads (it had to be a bridal shower or stagette) excitedly rush into the Ladies club, welcomed by three beefy and shirtless young men. They were in for a great time! What goes on the road......

Making our way down Bourbon Street, we are jostled, sidestepping tourists who are stopped to watch a sight. Everywhere Oyster Houses, cafes and restaurants offering Po-Boys, Jambalaya, Gumbo, Crawfish. 

It is hot, humid, spicy; the humidity and humanity mixing together to create an atmosphere that is intriguing, bold and uniquely New Orleans - much like their famous Gumbo. It is no wonder, I think, it is their local speciality with its mixture of tastes and flavours simmered together in a hot spicy sauce.

Heading back now to the hotel, I look forward to the next six days, eager to uncover more of this fascinating place. Come With Me.