3 Days in Paris, Oh, Sorry, that's Paros!

October 8^th. We bid farewell to the lovely little island of Paros after three lazy, relaxing days in this sunny little town of Naousa on the island of Paros, Greece.

 The population of the island is only 13,000 and the little village of Naousa a small portion of that.

It is not world famous and stunningly beautiful like Santorini. It does not attract the wealthy and the celebrities like Capri or offer the nightlife like Mykonos. But it captures your heart. With its quaint little fishing port and its winding alleys with little shops and cafes, cobblestone streets and colored doors it invites you to wander, unhurried, to take your time, wind down, relax, breath.

 

 

 

 

The beaches are beautiful and abundant. Hiking the rocky shore reveals we discovered little coves with sandy bays and crystal clear water at every turn. Only the occasion sunbather stretched out on the rocks soaking the warmth of the October sun before winter sets in. The beaches are sandy but littered with small chunks of marble and granite, pink granite, green granite, chunks of translucent marble with streaks of orange, black, grey. Paros is renowned for its unique and beautiful marble. But it is so amazing to see pieces of it amid the sand and pebbles on the beach.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The buildings are all white cube-like structures with blue trim and colored doors. I found red, pink, blues, greens, purples, orange... but no Yellow..... not sure why!

 

 

 

 

The restaurants are excellent, seafood is the specialty since it is a fishing port. As we walk around the port there is Octopus drying in the sun, fishermen mending their nets and hauling in their catch.

Or, sample the traditional Greek dishes like souvlaki, moussaka,  saganaki, tsiziki, and meatballs with a name too long to spell.

The sunsets are spectacular, reflecting the colors on the still waters in the harbour.

 

There are no friendlier and welcoming people, whether it is the hotelier who welcomes you and carries your bags to the room (thanks Alexandros!) for you and ensures every detail is perfect. Or the shopkeepers who invite you in to their little shops. The waiter who offers you a free desert or patiently explains what the foreign offerings on the menu are and smiles at your feeble attempt to pronounce their traditional dishes. The nail salon (Vivianne) that brings a cold glass of wine while you relax for a pedicure just the weathered old man who stops to chat on the street.

Paros is simple, authentic, a step removed from the fast-paced lived we seem to create.  It is a place you could spend a week or two, a real holiday not just a trip. Where a week in a two bedroom suite steps from beaches and shops and restaurants won’t cost a lot. Where a glass of wine at dinner is only 3Euros and a litre is under 10EU.

 

But our time here is done, we bid farewell and board the ferry for Mykonos, the last leg of our journey.

 

Come With Me.

Its still Greek to Me....

Paros, Greece.

Lesson #1.  Sunday is a VERY busy travel day for ferries from Santorini!

Crowded into a holding area with several hundred of our closest friends we wait for the ferry from Santorini to Paros. Unfortunately it is also the ferry to Athens and is packed. It is interesting to watch the people. The older Greek women who probably travel this ferry frequently, aggressively push their way to the front of the line. They know exactly where they need to be.  Then there are the "entitled" tourists who believe the have a right to be the first in line everywhere and rudely push through the crowd to the front to make sure they are the first on.  Then the rest of us who wait patiently (sort of) in the proper queue.  We finally decide we need to follow the Greek women, they know where they are going.

Finally we are aboard. It is a much nicer ferry, very comfortable as we settle in for a 2 1/2 hour ferry ride to Paros.

Paros is a lovely little island, much quieter and relaxing. It is very empty now as the season is almost over. We are staying in a little fishing village called Naousa on the north end. It has a small fishing port surrounded by little restaurants.

 

 There are beaches.

 


And an old castle from the 15th century, or what is left of it.

And a nice little town square with shops and restaurants and a fabulous bakery.

And of course churches.

And even a winery with excellent local wines. They produce 250,000 bottles per year and export all
over the world.

In think we are going to like it here.  Come With Me....

Things to do in Santorini.....

October 3, 2015.  Santorini, Greece.

So what does one do in the most beautiful place on earth?  We have been busy exploring and enjoying this amazing little island (only 6 km wide at the widest point and 19 kms long) and here are some things we found:

1. Wander.....

Wander along the little stone paths and streets. Follow them as they wind around. Take a little set of stairs this way and that and see where they go. I guarantee at pretty much every one you will discover some new view or treasure that takes your breath away.

2. See how many churches and domes and steeples you can find. They claim there more than 250 on the island.  I think we have found a lot of them.

3. Take photos of colored doors. or gates.  Many are blue but I have found green, red, even a purple one today.

4. Go shopping. Poke in the many little shops and galleries along the way. Linen shops and cotton shops and silk shops. Shoes, scarfs, bags. Souvenirs and knicknacks as well as beautiful ceramics and pottery. Tons of jewellery shops, both highend and low. You can buy wine, ouzo or olive oil. T-shirts, sweaters or hats. Gifts for the kids, the hubby or friends. Or just treat yourself.

 

5. Go see some history. Whether its the old castle ruins right here in Oia where everyone gathers to watch the sunset, or the excavation site in Akrotori you will learn something of the island's history. Drive to Emperio to the Venetian Castle and the half dozen churches around it...(why would you need so many huge churches in a small town like this?)

 

6. Stop for a break. Have a cold drink and people watch. Listen to the multitude of languages as people from all over the world mix in the friendly little streets. Have a piece of apple pie with ice cream, dripping with honey. Or a Greek salad, or some filo pastry.

7. Go to a beach. There is the Red Beach and the White beach and the Black beach. Because of its volcanic foundation and history the soil make up is radically different around the island. Black lava rock, red lava, limestone. These all break down to similar colors of sand. Mesa Pigadia Beach is shiny black pebbles that sing as the tide stirs them and they tumble together as the water ebbs and flows.  Or, if you are energetic, climb down Katharos Beach or Ammoudi Beach far below the caves of Oia, but remember you have to climb back up again! (Or take a donkey.)

8. Ride a donkey.  Donkeys are used here to haul freight up and down the narrow paths and stairs where vehicles can not go. I saw one with 12 cases of beer on it back going down a narrow set or steep stairs!. They transport people up the stairs from the beaches below. You can take a donkey tour between the towns of Fira and Oia or in the mountains.



Or just pretend.....

9.  Taste some local wine.....  Take a wine tour or just rent a car and discover the many local wineries on your own. Wines here are different because they are grown in the black volcanic soil and it is very dry here so they get most of their moisture from the humidity in the summer. The native grape is called Assyrtiko. The Santorini variety wine is a protected wine strictly regulated in its production.  Another called Nichteri (meaning all night long) , so named because it is very hot in the daytime so they work at night to make the wine. Boutari, Gravalas, Vinosantos...... and many more wonderful and welcoming wineries.

10. Crash a wedding photoshoot. There are numerous weddings here. Everyday you will see brides in front of churches, on steps, on cliffs, walking down the streets, pretty much anywhere. Beautiful white dresses and veils billowing in the wind.  Play paparazzi and steal a shot here and there, just for fun.

11. Gather to watch the sunset over the caldera, again. As the evening approaches make you way to the ruins and the wall on the west side of Oia. Join the hundreds of visitors who perch or lean on the walls, unhurried, watching the sky gradually turn pink, then orange, then red. Watch the giant ball sink in the sky. Then as it disappears the rosy glow paints the white buildings beautiful pastel shades of pink, purple and orange. Then make your way to your favorite restaurant for a long, leisurely dinner of Greek specialties like Moussaka, Souvlaki,  Greek meatballs, octopus, seafood or pasta.....
The end to a perfect day.

The restaurants on Ammoudi Bay.