If you Go... Lisbon Highlights.

Lisbon. What you must see...

We had five days to explore beautiful Lisbon.  We knew we wanted to take one day to see Sintra, which meant we had four days to see what Lisbon was all about.

So, here is our list of the must-see places to visit.

1.       The Squares or Pracas.

Lisbon, like most of the old European cities, is a mosaic of neighbourhoods centred around squares or Pracas, each with its own towering statue or monument.

For example, Praca dos Restauradores – wide walking street lined with restaurants.

-          Praca da Figueira (Fig Tree Square) – pop into the Confeitaria Nacional---- for one of their famous Nata tarts before hopping on the vintage tram
 

 

-          Largo do Carmo – around the ruins of the old Carmo Convent and the Archaeological Museum

  

2.       Alfama from St. Jorge’s Castle to the Cathedral Se.

While the newer areas of Lisbon are built to a visionary urban plan, Alfama is still a winding medieval town with narrow, hilly streets and small sparse houses crammed together in every bit of space. The hill streets tumble downward toward the Ribiera. This area of the city dates back to the 1100’s when it was ruled by the Arabs.

The castle Castelo S. Jorge sits atop the highest hill of Lisbon. There had been fortifications here since a couple hundred years B.C., but the castle itself was built in the 11^th centurty by the Moors. Here the elite lived and its walls continued around to protect the city of Alfama. In 1147 the Christian kings invaded and took over the castle, adding a Royal Palace where they lived. The castle is high above Lisbon and visible from most vantage points in the city.

The castle is in remarkable condition, given it is almost 1000 years old. It offers a drawbridge over a now-dry moat and 10 spectacular towers with stone stairways drawing you up to a spectacular 360 degree view.

All around the castle and the Alfama area are churches – beautiful towering steeples and domes standing out above the mish mash of houses.  Most are adorned with the beautiful blue and white tiles that are prevalent throughout Portugal. Each depicts a scene that is significant to the church, the area or the time.

But none is as impressive as the Cathedral Se (Holy Cathedral).          Damaged in the earthquake it was rebuilt in a fortress style, as opposed to the over-the-top gilded and elaborate cathedrals you see in most of Europe.     It was also originally built in 1150 after the Christian kings defeated the Moors, on the site of the existing mosque. 

Wandering through the massive formation, it is easy to image the life of the elite that lived within these walls. 

We climb the many stone stairways of the towers, walk along the parapets and take in the breathtaking view over the rooftops, out to the river.

I imagine standing there, with the peasants bustling in the tiny, crammed cottage-like homes below…. Oh, got a litte carried away there… I would have been the peasants!

Following the narrow, winding streets and pathways of Alfama will lead you back to the Baixa, or more modern (1700’s) city centre.

3.       Comercio Square and the Triumphal Arch.

Rue Augusta is a wide pedestrian street paved with white limestone. It is bright and clean. Shops and restaurants line the street and locals and visitors alike pass through. As Rua Augusta reaches the riverfront a magnificent arched gate leads to Praca Comercip, or Comercio Square.

This is the Triumphal Arch, or Arco da Rua Augusta. It was completed in 1873 and its beautifully sculpted frescoes depict important historic events and people of Portugal.

Through the arch, the square leads to the banks of the Tagus River. This is the square that once housed the Royal Palace and was completely destroyed by the earthquake and tsunami of 1755. It has been rebuilt but it no longer holds the Royal Palace. It is completely fringed by beautiful brilliant yellow buildings which house outdoor cafes, restaurants and shops. Artisans display their work in the shade of the archways.  At each end, towering over the river are monumental stone turrets.

In the centre of the square is a massive statue of King Dom Jose I mounted on his horse.

4.       Time Out market.

This was one of our favorite things we did in Lisbon. 

Following along the Rua Arsenal, running parallel to the river, we made our way to the Praca do Municipio and its old Market. This was the traditional farmer’s market where producers came to sell their fresh vegetables, fruits, meat, flowers, etc. However, with today’s modern supermarkets the market was struggling. In an effort to revitalize the market and draw people back to it, The Time Out Market took over half of the space.

 Now on one side you can browse the old farmer’s market, but crossing over to the other side you enter a whole new, modern world. Here some of the best chefs of Lisbon have set up open kiosk-style mini restaurants offering small dishes of some of their signature offerings. Dozens of bars and  restaurants circle the market along with the occasional art or gift shop.

The mood is happy, lively, energetic and definitely urban and modern. Long tables fill the space offering seating on high stools. It is late afternoon and it is packed. We grab 3 stools as someone vacates and make our way to a central wine bar.

The hard part is trying to decide, from the myriad of offerings, what to eat. We each chose one kiosk and bring back our plate of goodies to share.

It was a fun, relaxing way to wind down a busy day. A few glasses of wine and a tuk-tuk home...

5.       From Food to Fado

Fado music is very typically Portuguese. It is described as the voice of the Portuguese soul.  Born in the 1800's it is still strong and popular in the Bohemian areas of Alfama and Bairro Alto. 

 Fado really is Portugal's version of the blues, powerful vocals dripping with heartache and yearning and relying heavily on the unique and beautiful round- shaped 12 string guitar.

We really wanted to experience authentic Portuguese Fado and chose Fado in a Box. This club-type restaurant/bar/show was located in the Bairro Alto, an area of Lisbon known as the entertainment area. Fado in a Box has been around for decades but recently updated and renovated. Every day at 5:00 they offer a Fado show with appies and wine.

We walked in without tickets or reservations but they are able to accommodate us, their last table they tell us. 

They ushered us in, past posters and photos of their most famous singer, Amalia Rodrigues who sand there for 35 years and became one of the best known Portuguese Fado artists of all time. They take us down stairs to their show room - small, warm and welcoming like a basement jazz bar.

We nibble on appies, sip Portuguese wine and listen to the music and song that is traditional Fado.  It was a great evening.

6.       Monastery of Jeronimos and the Belem Tower

Belem is the treasure of Lisbon. It is from this spot on the Tagus River that Henry the Navigator departed for his discovery of Africa. And where Vasco da Gama’s caravans left for India. And where Cabral left for Brazil, all events that changed the world and brought great wealth and status to Portugal.

Hopping on the very crowded Tram 15 we make our way to the Monastery of Jeronimos, a masterpiece built in the 1500’s to celebrate the Portuguese discoveries. On this very site sat the chapel where Vasco da Gama prayed before departing on his epic voyage to discover the sea route to India and open up that trade route.

It is massive and stunningly beautiful. We stand in line waiting, only so many people allowed at once. We pay our Euros and enter. One side holds the Church, still in use... in fact a mass was in process. The other, the cloister or monastery and the Museum.

Across from the Monastery, toward the water is the Empire Square (Praco do Imperio). Here stands the Monument to the Discoveries, created in 1940 to honor the great Portuguese explorers, lead by Henry the Navigator and including 32 beautifully carved, intricate depictions of explorers, poets, mathematicians and cartographers. The statue faces and juts toward the Tagus River.

From the Square we make our way to the Belem Tower, the most symbolic and visited monument in Portugal. The tower was built in the 1500’s and was an important defence tower.

The tower sits just off the shore , once on a island before the 1755 earthquake shifted things. It has a five story base and beautifully ornate watchtowers. There is a drawbridge, no longer in use, and openings around the rooftop where 17 canons lined the structure capable of firing in all directions.

It is indeed an impressive structure. We make our way up narrow winding stairways equipped with a two minute timer. There is an light at the top of the doorway with an up arrow and a down arrow.

The timer buzzes, the up arrow lights up. People hurry up the narrow one-way stairwell. At 2 minutes the buzzes sounds again and everyone must exit into the nearest floor, emptying the stairwell so that on the next buzz people can come down. It is an interesting and highly effective way to manage large numbers of people in a very small confining space. (Obviously this was not part of the original structure, but added to manage the many visitors)

We make our way up to the top. The view across the city and across the water is well worth the climb. In the distance we see the 24^th of April bridge, built by, and resembling, San Francisico’s Golden Gate bridge.

One last stop in Belem… we have been told no visit to Belem is complete without visitng to Pasteis de Belem….  For one of their famous Natas—a delicious Portuguese custard tart.  The line-up is well down the block but we have been forewarned that it will move quickly.

And it does. They have it down to a science.

In not time at all I am in.
Till number 1: I’ll have 3 please. Pay my 3 Euros. 
Till 2: hand me a pretty little box with 3 tarts, and I’m out.

And, yes, they were worth the wait.

It has been a long hot day, a good day but we are tired. The line up for the return tram is not inviting. Instead we hail a tuktuk driver who agrees to take us back instyle.

Lisbon is a beautiful city, interesting modern and ancient at the same time. We loved everyting about it, but these were a few of our favorites.

That’s a wrap. Thanks for Coming With Me….

Sintra... a fairytale Medieval Town.

Sintra - Playground of the Royals.

Sintra is a fairytale medieval town just about an hour out of Lisbon. It is actually a part of greater Lisbon and it was once the playground of the royals. Here the wealthy aristocracy built beautiful palaces and mansions where they would move with their families in the summer. It was cooler here than the sweltering heat of Lisbon and offered beautiful mountains and huge forested hunting areas.

Today we set out with our guide, Andre, to discover this magical land where castles sit perched high on hilltops surrounding a charming medieval town with winding and hilly cobblestone streets, a mandatory palace and, of course, churches. There are actually 27 palaces in the surrounding area. Seven of them have been taken over by the government are now open to the public. Many of them were basically abandoned or sold at auction for a few Euros centuries ago. The restoration, maintenance and upkeep of these structures is a huge commitment for the government and is funded, in part at least, by the hordes of tourists who pay to visit them.

Even as we near Sintra we spot the iconic Pena Palace perched high on Sintra Hill, like the castle in a child’s fairytale book or the cover of a travel magazine. It is no ordinary palace. It is massive with towers and parapets. What makes Pena Palace so unique though is the color. The vibrant red and yellow of the palace, a striking contrast to the cobalt blue sky and the lush green of the surrounding woods. It is really two parts.

The red part is the Monastery, built in the early 16^th century to commemorate the return of Vasco de Gama when he returned from discovering the passage way to India for Portugal. The second part, the yellow part, was built in the 18^th century by King Ferdinand II and Queen Maria. When Maria died he married the Contessa of Edla, an opera singer, who became Queen Amelia.

It is quite a little hike up to the Palace from the main gates. But, not to worry if the climb is too taxing you can take advantage of the shuttle bus (3 Euros) which will deliver you to the gates.

You have the option of viewing the palace and the grounds from the exterior only or you can purchase an additional ticket to tour the interior of the palace as well. (10 Euros) With this option you can roam from room to royal room. But even better, you can access the many courtyards. Here striking vistas delight as you step through arched doorways. Across the hilltops you will see the ancient walls of the Moorish fort as they snake along the hilltops.

And, from all the various courtyards and towers you are treated with unique views and angles of the beautiful castle, the red tower with its jagged turret, the brilliant yellow parapets topped with an Islamic-influenced dome. The palace was built in the Romanticism style, focussing many intricate details and incorporating a mixture of styles to create an interesting and stunning structure.

When you have had you fill, make your way back down toward the town. You will see more palaces dotting the hillsides, like Monserrate Palace or the Challet Biester where Johnny Depp filmed The Ninth Gate. 

Just outside of the town was our second stop… The Quinta da Regaleira Estate. It is not a palace, per se, but the luxury estate of a wealthy baroness who had a palace or mansion built for herself. Later this property was purchased by a wealthy merchant who had many interests and ideologies, including the Masonic Lodge. He purchased the property and commissioned a well-known architect to re-create the property with unusual features that could be used for Masonic rituals.

We start our tour at the gates and make our way up a winding pathway to “The Waterfall”. This is not a waterfall as we would expect (especially when we are used to waterfalls that gush out of the mountains at home), but a sort of still, green pond with a small bridge. Above water trickles over a rocky ledge, dripping into the pond. On either side dark caves are visible. These are entries into a maze of underground tunnels. Following the tunnels (or you can take the above-ground pathways but that would be too boring)  will take you to several grottos, a tower, an unfinished well, and the “Orientation Well”.

This well is really the main attraction, an inverted tower reaching 27 metres down into the earth. It is not a well for the purpose of water, but a secret chamber used for masonic orientations! There is a deep dark central cavern. Surrounding it is a curved stairway that encircles the well as it descends. The stairway is one way – down- and from there you enter the pitch-black maze (thank heavens for the flashlight on my phone).

Once back above ground we make our way to The Chapel, also a masonic undertaking. Although there was some relationship between the masons and the church, it is generally not obvious. However, here the Masonic Eye is sculpted into the ceiling of the entry into the chapel.

The chapel is small but beautifully decorated with mosaics and stained glassed panels and intricately carved steeples.

The final stop is the palace itself, which is older and part of the original estate of the Baroness.

But the interest and the intrigue here is the masonic elements and the curiosity it arises as you image the purpose and use of each of these unusual features.

It is scorching hot and we eagerly make our way into town, seeking shade, an ice cold drink and lunch.

Andre instructs us to make sure we visit the Casa Piriquita for a “pillow pastry”, a melt-in-your-mouth Portuguese pastry and to the Cantinho for a shot of Ginja in a chocolate cup. Now, we have sampled this local liquer and enjoyed it, but nothing beats this. The young lady in the little shop has us select white chocolate or dark (dark please!). Then she has us hold our tiny chocolate vessel under the tap of the urn of Ginja and fills the cup… bottoms up, then eat the cup.  The combination of the sweet cherry flavored liquor and the chocolate is sinfully delicious.

We wander the steep and narrow cobblestone passages, poking into little shops laden with Portuguese handicrafts and souvenirs.

Then over the main square for a peak at the National Palace there.

 

We pile into our air-conditioned van and Andre hands us a welcome bottle of cold water as we head to our next stop. We wind along the Atlantic coastline, rugged cliffs with crashing waves below. It is unseasonably hot – hovering around 30 degrees – and locals and tourists alike are taking advantage of the weather.

 

As we wind up higher, we stop at Cabo do Roca (Cape of Roca). Here, on the rocky cliff sits a towering cross. This is the western-most point of mainland Europe. And, Andre tells us, if you drew a straight line from here across the Atlantic you would arrive at New Jersey, the exact same latitude.

Here, the rugged Atlantic surf crashed against the towering cliffs, the water a brilliant azur. It is dizzying drop down to the sea and we hug the narrow pathways above, feeling the cool Atlantic breezes in our hair.

One final stop as we wind into the resort town of Cascais. Beautiful snow white hotels line a wide meandering square along the harbour. Fishing boats bob in the water, sunbathers lounge on the sandy shore and the more energetic play volleyball on the beach.

We are treated to the infamous Santinis’s ice cream (coconut of course) and head back to Lisbon.

Portuguese for a Day is a small local tour company run by musician Andre Marinho and his lovely wife Filipa. Both native Portuguese, they spend their days sharing their beloved country and its history with visitors in small intimate groups. This is no cookie cutter tourist attraction with lumbering buses and audiophones. Andre and Filipa are the local family member who takes you around and shares their stories. They provide you with options of what you would prefer to see and sufficient time to wander about and explore or take photos as well.

And at night, Andre becomes the musician again, a professional bass player and session musician who has played with the likes of Elton John, Norah Jones and One Republic.

If you (or anyone you know) are planning a trip to Lisbon, get in touch with them. You will have a fabulous time.        mailto:info@portugueseforadaytours.com


As we wind down our three week visit to Spain and Portugal, stay tuned for one more recap of our time in Lisbon.... Come With Me.