The Beaches of Mykonos.....

The Beaches of Mykonos.

Monday, October 12th. 

It is our last day and we decide to explore the island, dotted with dozens of beaches around its perimeter. We rent a car, a tiny little Suzuki Swift, for the occasion. Unfortunately the beautiful weather we have had did not last and it is cloudy and very windy today. We have queried experts like the waitress at breakfast, the front desk person at the hotel, and our flirty bartender, Tasos, for their favorite beaches and have our day mapped out.

1.       Panormos Beach:  (aka Brown Sugar Beach)

Hugging the shoreline on the northern part of the island Panormos Beach stretches around a long bay, its golden sand, the color of Rogers Brown Sugar. The rocky coast is red and black and the beach is littered with tiny, colorful pebbles. There is evidence of the summer crowds here, a vacated concession building. But the season is over and the beach is deserted and quiet, just the sound of the waves lapping on a windy day.

 

 

 

 

2. Agios Sostis: (aka. Little Church Beach)

Winding further up the hills lies Agios Sostis. Here a linty little red domed church sits atop the hill overlooking the sea. The church is so tiny the pews are benches in a little courtyard outside the church’s blue doors. Steps away a stairway winds down the hill to a golden beach. It is rockier here, the surf a little wilder. But it is small and rugged and beautiful. It would be a great snorkelling spot if the water were a little calmer. Today is unusual, the wind gusting and the sea very rough. But the spot is idyllic, the water as dark as emeralds against the red of the rocks.

 

3.       Agios Ana (Bare Butt Beach)

We are now on the southern shore of the island, lined with beach after beach. This area, and specifically Paraga Beach, has been recommended because it is calmer, quieter, more sheltered….. usually. However today the wind is blowing from the south and the swells are noticeable.  A small boat is pulled high up on the shore and we seek a quieter spot in its shelter, only to discover a lone sunbather evening out his tan lines in the privacy of the boat’s shadow.  Unabashed we set up camp as he scurries to cover up… too bad!

The beach here is sheltered and a few people frolic in the waves. The water is crystal clear, a transparent turquoise blue lapping at the sandy shore. A roque waves gets us, soaking our picnic and our towels as we scurry further up on the shore.   As we load up and prepare to head to the next beach we see a sign “Paraga Beach” with an area to the left??????? What’s up with that.  We learn we have actually been on Ag. Ana, the smaller, neighbouring beach, a little more sheltered and offering a charming little beachside cantina (Scorpios).

  
 

4.       Paraga Beach (aka. Finally Found It Beach)

A short drive and we come to a large sign “Welcome to Paraga Beach”.  It is much larger and more commercial. The summer season is over and the rows of lounge chairs lie deserted under the dried palapas. This is a long sandy beach. The sandy here is whiter, softer, more tropical. You can see it would be a gathering place in the summer with several restaurants overlooking the beach. But today the wind blows directly into the bay. The waves crash and spray, creeping up into the rows of chairs. It is beautiful, the sound of the sea a symphony of nature.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 High rocky outcroppings bookend the bay, with paths that wind around to the next cove. High above on the rocks the next beach stretches out.

  
 

 

 

 
 

5.       Paradise Beach (aka. Party Place Beach)

Just around the rocks lies another cove or bay where the young come to party in the summer. It is lined with Clubs and bars and draws thousands of people during the summer. Now only signs that say “End of Season Party September 17^th.

 

 

6.       Ornos Beach (aka. Tighty Whitey Beach)

The winds are still strong, the water from the beach flows into the town square through the drainage culvert rather than the other way around. It is right on the edge of Mykonos so really part of the town. As we take in the view, we are blinded by a flash of brilliant white…… perhaps some exotic sea life???  But alas, it is only a nerdy geek stripping down to his tighty whiteys and go-pro harness (bra?) to shoot u-tube videos of himself in the waves!!! Nice!

Beautiful outdoor patios spill down the beach toward the water, now empty. Partially the end of season and partially the winds keeping the sunbathers away. There are rocky outcroppings along the shore that would welcome snorkels and swimmers on nicer days, for today we linger, stroll along the beach and enjoy the surf. 

 

 

 

Although the weather prevented us from swimming (which I never do anyway) it was a great day. While exploring the beaches we also had a chance to stop at a few other points of interest.

 The island, as most of Greece, is predominantly Greek Orthodox with hundreds of little churches. Today we also discovered two old monasteries.

The first, Paleokastro Monastri  dates back to 1568. It sits alongside the ruins of an old castle (Gizi Castle) and ancient City Wall and overlooks the farming countryside, rolling hills leading toward the sea. The monastery is simple, almost stark. Its age is evident in the rough stone walls. A little handwritten sign on the front attached to an old red knocker invites us to knock for entry. We do and wait, it seems no one is there. As we turn to leave the heavy door creaks open and tiny voices calls out to us. A tiny young nun greets us and welcomes us inside a courtyard garden. Here name is Christaloyden (not sure of the spelling). We ask how many nuns live in the convent (called a Monasteri here) and she says it is only her. She has lived alone there for 7 years. She calmy says, only me now, not too many people want to join the monastery today. “Maybe tomorrow more sisters will come,” she says.  It strikes me as very sad and lonely but she seems content in her little world and eager to chat with us. “You are very modern women,” she says. I suppose in comparison we would seem that way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also stop to visit a larger Monastery, Panagia Tourliani Monastery, in the little town of Ano Mera. This is a monastery for men or monks, again Orthodox.  We enter through the outer walls into a large beautiful courtyard. The year on the building says 1767.  Ahead of us is a marble belltower, rising skyward on the right and the usual cross and three bells in the centre leading into the church. All around on two floors are quarters where, I assume, the monks live. We are eager to see the centuries old monastery or church and are about to pay for our 1 Euro tour when a hearse pulls up and a black-clad undertaker arrives with several floral arrangements. We duck into the side alley out of the way as a shiny black casket is carried in. Alas, we did not get our tour, but we did get to crash a Greek funeral, complete with wailing women and a long-bearded priest.

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To end our day and our stay in Greece we get dressed up and make our way to Taverna Kostas, recommended for its authentic Greek food and atmosphere. We eat Moussaka, Greek salad, Dolmades and Spinach Pie. Green checkered table cloths, flickering candles and Greek music. Two ponytailed musicians, one with a guitar and one with a Bazooke (a rounded bowl-shaped mandolin-looking instrument) entertain us with lively traditional Greek music while a red-haired woman claps and accompanies on a tambourine, almost gypsy like. It is fun, energetic, celebratory. Perfect.

This brings our trip to a close. We pack our bags and prepare to leave Mykonos.

Tomorrow we fly to Rome, then home to Canada.

 

Despite all we have heard of the Greek Crisis, we have not seen refugees in the streets, we have not seen destitute and downtrodden or defeated people. We have had no issues with ATMs or banks or credit cards.

Everywhere we have travelled in this ancient country we have met wonderful, open, friendly and welcoming people. People who love their country, acknowledge they have challenges to work through, but who remain optimistic, cheerful and only to eager to share their past, their present and their optimism for the future with all who visit.

 

 

Greek Myths revisited...

October 10th. Mykonos, Greece.

Mykonos is a contemporary island, they say the most cosmopolitan centre in Greece. It is the current gathering place for the well to do party crowd. Dozens of restaurants, bars, clubs. High end and designer shops along side of touristy shops selling souvenirs and T-shirts.

 


The most famous church is called Paraportiani, a massive white structure overlooking the port. It is really a combination of four small churches which were later enclosed and added to to become a fifth larger church.

Old Port is a friendly, not so posh area where you can sit at little seaside cafés enjoying a drink, a snack or a meal. You can walk along the water or lounge on the beach. Here boats leave for day tours or water taxis can take you to neighbouring areas.

And you can wander through the little streets and alleys of Little Venice, so named because of the buildings that rise sharply from the water like in Venice. All it is missing is the canals and a gondolas.

Yesterday we spent exploring this lovely little town and all its nooks and crannies.
Stopping for lunch at a little café on the water we had mini-waffles ( take a think fluffy Belgian waffle and cut it into the individual squares, then add fresh sliced strawberries, bananas, crushed walnuts and maple syrup) So good!  

And, by the way.... a yellow door!

DELOS, Sacred Island of the Gods....



These famous lions guarded the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis.
 

Today was our day to visit the ancient Gods and Goddesses of Greek Mythology. Just a few kilometers from Mykonos is a tiny island called Delos, the Sacred Island of the ancient Greeks. It is only 5 mms long and 1200 metres wide but was once the most important commercial trading centre in the world, with 30,000 inhabitants and thousands od visitors a year. It is estimated 750,000 tons of goods moved through its ports each year. This was the beginning of the first century BC.

Delos is now a Sacred Island. No one is allowed to live on the island or to remain on the island between sunset and sunrise. The reason it is sacred is because it is the said to be the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis, twins, fathered by Zeus. Apollo is the God of Light, harmony and balance. Artemis is the Moon Goddess.
















The island now is an excavation site where ancient ruins depict the way of life of the people, earliest inhabitants are dated back to 2500 BC, but much of it is around the 1st and 2nd century BC.



Temples to the Gods like Apollo, Hermes, Dionysus. Houses where the merchants from all over the world traded their goods. There are aqueducts and cisterns depicting an advanced civilization, under street water and sewer systems. It is fascinating.

And amid the site is the Museum housing the statues and antiquities discovered here.

Me at The Temple of Ises.

Beautiful statues housed within the Museum. It is interesting that no one artist is attributed with the creation of the art because in ancient Greece art was a gift from the Gods and never signed  or belonging to a person.


From the House of Cleopatra.

This massive statue was commissioned by a wealthy Italian merchant as a likeness of himself for his house. It is said he paid to have the form youthful and vigorous, not exactly a real likeness.



The real statues of the lions are housed inside the museum to protect them from the weather, the ones outside in the ruins are replicas.

Only one more day...... Come With Me.....

Mykonos, Greece.

It is hot and sunny as we dock in Mykonos. Like the other islands we have visited, Mykonos is dry, dusty, little vegetation and no trees to speak of. A small island, it is dotted with beaches along its perimeters with white and blue buildings spilling toward the seas. Here you still see a multitude of churches, most with blue domes, but here you will also see red roofed or red domed churches.

We are escorted to The Poseidon, our new home, by George, our driver, a tall, handsome Greek with George Clooney’s eyes and smile. Mykonos Town is the only town of any size. The island only has about 5500 people and 4400 of them reside here.

Our first impression is very good…. Olympic sized swimming pool with turquoise water and a poolside bar. Poolside restaurant and bar. Our suite is roomy and sparkling clean. Two bedrooms and a large bathroom with Jacuzzi. And a small patio overlooking the pool.

 George shows us where to find the famous windmills and “Little Venice”, the popular tourist area, and we set off to explore.

 

 

 

 

On hill above the seashore stands a row of old windmills, just a few remaining of the original ones used for powering the mills in the past.

We continue on to Little Venice, lining the shoreline in Old Port. Here tourists gather for shopping, restaurants, bars and to watch the sunset. It is reminiscent of Venice with the straight storefronts rising sharply out of the water. the only thing missing is the gondolas. Instead on canals there are narrow cobblestone alleys.

We find a seat at a seaside bar and watch the sun set over the waters of the Aegean with the backdrop of the neighbouring islands and the windmills.

 

 

 A great first day in Mykonos.... Come With Me......

 

 FRIDAY in Mykonos.. The day dawns bright and sunny but a bit cooler.
We decide we want to spend the day exploring the area around Little Venice and Old Port. It is late in the season and, while the streets are full of tourists, it is slow season compared to summer.

We wander through town toward the port. All along it is shop after shop with every kind of goods you can imagine. We pop in and out gathering gifts and souvenirs.

I spot a few new colors of doors.... finally yellow!
 
And Bright orange... Pantone 485????

 

 We make our way toward the port and the Church of Paraportiana, a  unique church which is really 5 small churches combined into one. It sits overlooking the port.

 

 On towards Old Port where the fishing boats dock and the smaller day tours depart.

 And as we near the end of the bay we come to the bright red dome which marks the beginning of the port where the ferries and cruise ships come and go.

 

 

Mykonos Town is a small town which swells with visitors each summer. With dozens, perhaps hundreds of stores, shops, restaurants open and welcoming. It is late season so most are not busy but it is easy to imagine how busy the summer would be.

 

Two more days...... Come With Me......