The Beaches of Mykonos.
It is our last day and we decide to explore the island,
dotted with dozens of beaches around its perimeter. We rent a car, a tiny
little Suzuki Swift, for the occasion. Unfortunately the beautiful weather we
have had did not last and it is cloudy and very windy today. We have queried
experts like the waitress at breakfast, the front desk person at the hotel, and
our flirty bartender, Tasos, for their favorite beaches and have our day mapped
out.
1.
Panormos Beach:
(aka Brown Sugar Beach)
Hugging the shoreline on the northern part
of the island Panormos Beach stretches around a long bay, its golden sand, the
color of Rogers Brown Sugar. The rocky coast is red and black and the beach is
littered with tiny, colorful pebbles. There is evidence of the summer crowds
here, a vacated concession building. But the season is over and the beach is deserted
and quiet, just the sound of the waves lapping on a windy day.
2. Agios Sostis: (aka. Little Church Beach)
Winding further up the hills lies Agios
Sostis. Here a linty little red domed church sits atop the hill overlooking the
sea. The church is so tiny the pews are benches in a little courtyard outside
the church’s blue doors. Steps away a stairway winds down the hill to a golden
beach. It is rockier here, the surf a little wilder. But it is small and rugged
and beautiful. It would be a great snorkelling spot if the water were a little
calmer. Today is unusual, the wind gusting and the sea very rough. But the spot
is idyllic, the water as dark as emeralds against the red of the rocks.
3.
Agios Ana (Bare Butt Beach)
We are now on the southern shore of the
island, lined with beach after beach. This area, and specifically Paraga Beach,
has been recommended because it is calmer, quieter, more sheltered….. usually.
However today the wind is blowing from the south and the swells are noticeable.
A small boat is pulled high up on the
shore and we seek a quieter spot in its shelter, only to discover a lone
sunbather evening out his tan lines in the privacy of the boat’s shadow. Unabashed we set up camp as he scurries to
cover up… too bad!
The beach here is sheltered and a few people
frolic in the waves. The water is crystal clear, a transparent turquoise blue
lapping at the sandy shore. A roque waves gets us, soaking our picnic and our
towels as we scurry further up on the shore.
As we load up and prepare to head to the next beach we see a sign “Paraga
Beach” with an area to the left??????? What’s up with that. We learn we have actually been on Ag. Ana, the
smaller, neighbouring beach, a little more sheltered and offering a charming
little beachside cantina (Scorpios).
4.
Paraga Beach (aka. Finally Found It Beach)
A short drive and we come to a large sign “Welcome
to Paraga Beach”. It is much larger and
more commercial. The summer season is over and the rows of lounge chairs lie
deserted under the dried palapas. This is a long sandy beach. The sandy here is
whiter, softer, more tropical. You can see it would be a gathering place in the
summer with several restaurants overlooking the beach. But today the wind blows
directly into the bay. The waves crash and spray, creeping up into the rows of
chairs. It is beautiful, the sound of the sea a symphony of nature.
High rocky
outcroppings bookend the bay, with paths that wind around to the next cove.
High above on the rocks the next beach stretches out.
5.
Paradise Beach (aka. Party Place Beach)
Just around the rocks lies another cove or
bay where the young come to party in the summer. It is lined with Clubs and
bars and draws thousands of people during the summer. Now only signs that say
“End of Season Party September 17th.
6.
Ornos Beach (aka. Tighty Whitey Beach)
The winds are still strong, the water from
the beach flows into the town square through the drainage culvert rather than
the other way around. It is right on the edge of Mykonos so really part of the
town. As we take in the view, we are blinded by a flash of brilliant white……
perhaps some exotic sea life??? But
alas, it is only a nerdy geek stripping down to his tighty whiteys and go-pro
harness (bra?) to shoot u-tube videos of himself in the waves!!! Nice!
Beautiful outdoor patios spill down the
beach toward the water, now empty. Partially the end of season and partially
the winds keeping the sunbathers away. There are rocky outcroppings along the
shore that would welcome snorkels and swimmers on nicer days, for today we
linger, stroll along the beach and enjoy the surf.
Although the weather prevented us from swimming (which I
never do anyway) it was a great day. While exploring the beaches we also had a
chance to stop at a few other points of interest.
The island, as most of
Greece, is predominantly Greek Orthodox with hundreds of little churches. Today
we also discovered two old monasteries.
The first, Paleokastro Monastri dates back to 1568. It sits alongside the
ruins of an old castle (Gizi Castle) and ancient City Wall and overlooks the
farming countryside, rolling hills leading toward the sea. The monastery is
simple, almost stark. Its age is evident in the rough stone walls. A little
handwritten sign on the front attached to an old red knocker invites us to
knock for entry. We do and wait, it seems no one is there. As we turn to leave
the heavy door creaks open and tiny voices calls out to us. A tiny young nun
greets us and welcomes us inside a courtyard garden. Here name is Christaloyden
(not sure of the spelling). We ask how many nuns live in the convent (called a
Monasteri here) and she says it is only her. She has lived alone there for 7
years. She calmy says, only me now, not too many people want to join the
monastery today. “Maybe tomorrow more sisters will come,” she says. It strikes me as very sad and lonely but she
seems content in her little world and eager to chat with us. “You are very
modern women,” she says. I suppose in comparison we would seem that way.
We also stop to visit a larger Monastery, Panagia Tourliani
Monastery, in the little town of Ano Mera. This is a monastery for men or
monks, again Orthodox. We enter through
the outer walls into a large beautiful courtyard. The year on the building says
1767. Ahead of us is a marble belltower,
rising skyward on the right and the usual cross and three bells in the centre
leading into the church. All around on two floors are quarters where, I assume,
the monks live. We are eager to see the centuries old monastery or church and are
about to pay for our 1 Euro tour when a hearse pulls up and a black-clad
undertaker arrives with several floral arrangements. We duck into the side alley
out of the way as a shiny black casket is carried in. Alas, we did not get our
tour, but we did get to crash a Greek funeral, complete with wailing women and
a long-bearded priest.
T
To end our day and our stay in Greece we get dressed up and
make our way to Taverna Kostas, recommended for its authentic Greek food and
atmosphere. We eat Moussaka, Greek salad, Dolmades and Spinach Pie. Green
checkered table cloths, flickering candles and Greek music. Two ponytailed
musicians, one with a guitar and one with a Bazooke (a rounded bowl-shaped
mandolin-looking instrument) entertain us with lively traditional Greek music
while a red-haired woman claps and accompanies on a tambourine, almost gypsy
like. It is fun, energetic, celebratory. Perfect.
This brings our trip to a close. We pack our bags and prepare to leave Mykonos.
Tomorrow we fly to Rome, then home to Canada.
Despite all we have heard of the Greek Crisis, we have not seen refugees in the streets, we have not seen destitute and downtrodden or defeated people. We have had no issues with ATMs or banks or credit cards.
Everywhere we have travelled in this ancient country we have met wonderful, open, friendly and welcoming people. People who love their country, acknowledge they have challenges to work through, but who remain optimistic, cheerful and only to eager to share their past, their present and their optimism for the future with all who visit.
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