Granada: 10 Top Things to see in Granada

Granada sits in the southern part of Spain. Like Barcelona it has a past that included many different cultures including Roman, Visigoth, Islamic or Arabic and Christian. But, Granada has a stronger Arabic influence in its culture and architecture. Everywhere there is a blend of Arabian and Spanish or Christian. This blend in architecture is called Murjista(?).

Granada is a beautiful city, small by comparison to Barcelona or Madrid. It is very clean and friendly and casually balances new and modern with the old. There are distinct areas displaying the varied history of the city: The Arab Quarter nor Albayzin, the Gypsy Quarter or Sacromonte, the old historic Christian centre and the Jewish Quarter.

We had four days in Granada to explore all it has to offer. Here is my list of the top 12 things to see or do if you visit Granada:

1.       The Alhambra, of course.

The Fountain of the Lions in the Palace Nazarones.

The Alhambra is an Arab citadel (city inside walls) that sits high above the town. Its red walls are still intact as are many of its buildings. While it was an Arab fortress, the Christians occupied it after they defeated the Arabs and there are parts that reflect that as well, like King Charles V’s magnificent Palace. IF you go to the Alhambra it is a good idea to take a tour so that you can learn about the history of the many palaces, towers, and inner workings of the citadel.

And, make sure to get your tickets to the Palace Nazarios – separate from your main admission.

The Alhambra used to be white with no trees around. It was a defensive fortress and they had to be able to see anyone approaching. But, over time trees were planted to stop the erosion of the mountain.

Because there are watch towers, palaces and multiple levels there are many winding stairways as you wander throughout the complex.

Panoramic views of the city and the valley are spread out below.

2.       The Albayzin or Arab Quarter.

It is a steep climb up from central Granada along old, narrow, cobblestone passages and stairways. Around every corner is a surprise – a church (which was likely formerly a mosque), a plaza, a wall with its Islamic keyhole windows, or little restaurants or cafes or shops. You see evidence of the old Aljides or wells that brought water down into the town centuries ago. And as you wander you will see glimpses of towering Alhambra across the river.

 

   

3.       The Alceceira or old Souk market.

Colorful cotton harem pants, flowing skirts and printed blankets hang of the front of little stalls along a crowded passageway. Inside beautiful and colorful mosaic lights and lanterns drape from the ceiling. And in between every manner of handicraft or souvenir spills off of every surface. Of course there are the usual t-shirts, keychains, and knick knacks but here you see the exotic touches of Morocco as well. The narrow alley winds like a maze through a couple of blocks behind the popular Plaza Nuevo.

4.       The Hammam or Arab Baths.

(No photos allowed. This is from the website of the Hammam)

Inside of the Alhambra you will see the remains of the Roman Baths, which were condemned by the succession of Catholic monarchs as pagan and sinful. While these are now only ruins, in Granada itself you will find a number of Hammams or Arab Baths where you can indulge in the ancient practises of the Baths. One of the best is the Hamman del Andalus. As you enter, you are immediately transported back in time to the Arabian baths. Soft Arabian music places and exotic fragrances waft through the air. You make your way through beautifully arched and tiled passageways, silent and peaceful, to candlelit pools on the Water Journey.

Warm… Hot… Cold… Steam.  Repeat.

Repeat gain, as needed.

First you slip into the warm pool, easily immersing yourself into its gentle, tranquil waters. The quiet, the scents, the lulling music release all stress and strain. Then you move to the hot pool and slower slip into its embrace further melting away tension and tightness. Next step… immerse yourself totally into the cold pools.. not so easy, but ultimately invigorating and refreshing. Then on to a 5 minute spell in the steam room. And repeat this cycle for the precious 90 minutes allotted.

As your body releases any resistance and your muscles melt, you are beckoned into the massage chambers, Here a large round marble slab fills the centre of the room. The stone is hot. You lie, back flat on the marble floor allowing the heat to seep into your pores. I sweat this is the ultimate in relaxation, it is near impossible to pick yourself up from the floor. But you must. You are ushered into a semi-private massage area where well-trained hands massage warm, fragrant oils into your skin and gently rub and massage neck. Shoulders, back, arms, hands, feet… until every fibre has surrendered.

I don’t know if we have such an experience in Vancouver but I surely going to search for one.

5.       Sacromonte and the Gypsy Flamenco shows.

If you follow the winding paths through the Albayzin to the end of the old city walls you will come to Sacromonte. It is on the other side of the wall, outside the city. Here the gypsies live in very basic rudimentary living conditions, little stucco houses built into the side of the hills.

When they first arrived here they discovered how easy soft the soil was and how easy it was to dig into. So they built little caves and made these into their homes. It is dusty and dirty, even the cacti are desolate. But their spirit remains undaunted.

Throughout the quarter there are several Flamenco Shows which tourists clamour to see. Visitors duck into the long, narrow structures, seated on simple wooden chairs and benches. The music is rhythmic and contagious. The singer chants plaintively, more than sings. Gyspy women in their flowing or ruffled dresses of red and black, with heavily-lined and dramatic eyes, twirl and spin; their heels hammering on the wooden floors. The men, shirts open at the neck under tailored suit jackets whirl and stomp. Stomp and whirl in a frenzy. Spinning and clapping. It is a festival. A party, a celebration and we are there to share in it.

6.       Saint Nicholas Square Mirador (lookout).

Across the valley from the Alhambra, in the Albayzin District sits the church of St. Nicholas, the highest point in the Albayzin. From here you have a direct view of the Alhambra. The evening is the best time to go, either to watch the sunset off after dark to see the Alhambra lit up against the dark night sky.

7.       History Walking Tour.

There is so much history in Granada and it is captured in time in the many monuments and archeologically preserved buildings throughout the town. There are many walking tours available, some free and some for a nominal fee. You will discover the towering and intricately beautiful Cathedral, the fourth largest in the world and dating back to 1561, over top of the city’s main mosque after the Christian takeover of the city. You will visit a Corral (Corral del Carbon), constructed in 1336 it was once a guesthouse and later a grain exchange and coal yard.

You will pass many a square and a church from Plaza Santa Ana with its lovely blue tile steeple that attracts many a wedding, to Plaza Isabella with it towering statue of Christopher Columbus and Queen Isabella. You will stop at the popular Plaza Nuevo dotted with open-air cafes and restaurants. And all along you learn about the fascinating and multi-facetted history of this city.

8.       Free Tapas.

Granada is famous for its free tapas. Here you can order a glass of wine, a beer or another drink like Sangria and you will receive a free tapas or appetizer. The history goes, because the weather was hot and there were a lot of cattle or camels or whatever, there were also a lot of flies which would find their way into people’s drinks. To deter the flies, bartenders began topping the glass with a slice of b read. This seemed rather boring so they began adding a snack on top of the bread and tapas was born. But Granada is the only area that gives away free tapas with a drink. In some places these are skewered on toothpicks which were saved and tallied to determine the bill at the end of the night.

Now, in most places you can order a drink and be offered a free tapas.

One of the best is our favorite, B&B’s just near our hotel. They have a tapas menu and you can choose what you want. We loved the mini burgers and the steamed veggies and chicken, free with our glass of wine.  Can’t beat that.

 

9.       The Teterias or Tea Houses of Granada

Just back of the central Plaza Nueva you can find a narrow little street or passageway that winds uphill. It is flanked on both sides by little Arabian markets – bright colored fabrics, lights, incense, spices. You step through curtained doorways into little shops filled with knickknacks and souvenirs.

  

But that is not the best part of Calle Calderia Nueva. Here you will find the Teterias or Arab tearooms. This is where the young people and the hippies come to hang out, Granada is a big University town. It informal. These delightful and exotic little places are Kasbah influenced and offer all manner of fruit infused teas and delicious pastries as well as Arab influenced foods like couscous, falafels, shwarma.

We chose Alfaguera. Here you can sit crosslegged on colorful patterned cushions on little benches on the floor, or on cushioned benches at a regular table (for those of us who may not be able to get back up off the floor!) They have mouthwatering crepes stuffed with chicken, vegeatbles or fruit. I chose peaches, hazelnut and chocolate – yum! And a little hazelnut and honey roll, the filo pastry paper-thin and delicate. Again – yum!

They also have hookahs and water pipes and you can go into another room and smoke fruit infused tobaccos. We pretended- but I am not that cool….

 

10.   Shopping – of course

Granada has a very cosmopolitan area as well. The more modern Centro area has several good shopping streets. Calle Acera del Darro is one such street, with beautiful hanging baskets of red geraniums lining the centre boulevards and shiny glass storefronts beckoning. Window shoppers can browse storefronts offering silver jewellery (almost always 50% off), many shoe stores and clothing stores, farmacias, perfumeries…  Beautiful colorful gowns grace the windows making you wonder (maybe enviously) where they could possible go to justify wearing them.

Nearby, the multi-level department store (El Cortes Ingles) is very reminiscent of The Bay with floors of clothing, shoes, accessories, and even a supermarket on the lower level.

We loved Granada and will miss it as we move on to Portugal.   Come With Me....