Coffee Time!
We are staying at the Feynan Ecolodge in the Dana Biosphere Reserve in Jordan. This is the largest nature reserve in Jordan, stretching from below sea level at the Wadi Araba (Araba Valley) to over 1700 m above sea level at the red-rock cliffs near the ancient town of Dana.
The Bedoiun people are indigenous to Jordan. They are still
nomadic and live in very rudimentary camps, usually some manner of tent. In
winter this shelter will be more substantial with a roof and walls, perhaps canvas
or woolen blankets. In summer when it becomes oppressively hot some move to a
cooler spot and some just open up their tent structure (just tree trunks and
branches made into a rough framework.) They remove the heavier coverings and
sleep on mats under a rugged canopy, with a small cooking area attached. The goats
and chickens roam freely the red sandstone cliffs near the 15th
century village of Dana.
Here, 6000 years ago existed the largest copper mines and
smelting industries in the middle east. Later the Romans worked these mines with
Christian slaves. Then hills around Dana still contain copper but the Jordanian
government does not allow mining in the reserve.
Jordanian hospitality is more than a smile and a friendly
handshake, although they are exceptionally warm and welcoming.
Back to the coffee. The art of coffee is a serious custom
and ritual in Jordan. We have been invited into the summer dwelling of a small
neighbouring Bedouin family for coffee. We duck under the thatched canopy roof
and sit cross-legged on colorful mats. Ali, a local guide explains
the ritual as our host, Abu Mohd, the elder of the family warmly welcomes us to
his home. In Bedouin culture coffee making is a serious task and belongs to the
man of the house.
First: Select and roast the beans. Our host places the beans into a small pan which he roasts, shaking the pan to ensure they roast evenly and all around.
G
rind the beans. The roasted beans are poured into a clay jug and a wooden rod, like a mortar and pestle, is used to grind them. It is serious ritual, taking several minutes until the smell of fresh ground beans begins to fill the air. The clay jug is a family heirloom passed from father to son.
The cups are very small, they contain 3 sips. They are beautifully and delicately decorated.
He pours tiny cups and hands them gently to his guest, one at a time, with his right hand. You must receive the cup also with your right hand and sip the coffee in 3 sips. It is an insult to decline or refuse the offered cup. I sip the coffee, surprisingly mild and tasty, the cardamon adding a nice touch.
G
rind the beans. The roasted beans are poured into a clay jug and a wooden rod, like a mortar and pestle, is used to grind them. It is serious ritual, taking several minutes until the smell of fresh ground beans begins to fill the air. The clay jug is a family heirloom passed from father to son.
Boil the coffee. The coffee is mix with the water and set to boil over an open flame campfire.
Add flavour. Coffee is flavored with a fresh spice such as sage or cardamom.
Today it will be cardamom. Our host grinds
the cardamom to a fine powder, then mixes it into the coffee and sets the
coffee to brew on the open fire.
The cups are very small, they contain 3 sips. They are beautifully and delicately decorated.
He pours tiny cups and hands them gently to his guest, one at a time, with his right hand. You must receive the cup also with your right hand and sip the coffee in 3 sips. It is an insult to decline or refuse the offered cup. I sip the coffee, surprisingly mild and tasty, the cardamon adding a nice touch.
If you wish more you hand the cup back for a refill. If not,
you shake the cup indicating no refill.
You may only have 3 cups in one session. When you are
spending time with the family they will also want to provide a meal, but we are
not doing that today. You may have coffee three times – on arrival, after
eating, on departure.
There are 3 occasions where it is acceptable to have 4 cups:
the engagement – when asking the father of the girl for his permission. The 4th
cup is the agreement. Second, Revenge… when someone has wronged you a person
may agree to avenge that deed for you… the 4th cup is his pledge to seek
revenge on your behalf. The third occasion is Treaty… to seal an agreement or
pact.
Not being a coffee drinker, I accept the first cup, sip the
fragrant brew in 3 small sips and gently shake the tiny cup as I hand it back.
Abu Mohd boils water with tea and sugar and hands me a warm and sweet cup of tea. I am honored with his genuine hospitality.
As we sit around and visit Ali informs us that Abu Mohd is 73 years old, he has two wives and 3 adult married children. His bright eyes crinkling in a smile he lets us know he is in the market for a third.
Abu Mohd boils water with tea and sugar and hands me a warm and sweet cup of tea. I am honored with his genuine hospitality.
As we sit around and visit Ali informs us that Abu Mohd is 73 years old, he has two wives and 3 adult married children. His bright eyes crinkling in a smile he lets us know he is in the market for a third.
We smile and bow, offering a warm shukran or thankyou as we leave.
Come With Me... next stop Petra.
Come With Me... next stop Petra.
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