Into the Desert....

Into the Desert….

One of the key adventures we have planned is camel riding into the Sahara Desert. So we set out with our guide and driver.

 It is actually quite far to the desert from Marrakesh. We must first pass over the High Atlas Mountains, the smaller Anti-Atlas Mountains, through the Draa Valley and finally Zagora which is the entry point.

 It will take the best part of the day, but we do not want to arrive too early. We prefer to ride in late in the afternoon to avoid the hottest part of the day – even hotter than Marrakesh.

As we drive through the Atlas Mountains we see the commitment Morocco has made to upgrading and developing good modern highways that will cut hours off of the trip. The highway winds with switchback turns up and up over the mountains – much of it in a state of continual construction. These mountains are tetonic  formed by earthquakes a millennia ago. They are red rock similar to Arizona and with lush green vegetation from the waters of the rain and snowmelt.



As we continue over the top, through Tichka Pass, and down the other side we enter the Anti-Atlas Mountains. These are black and volcanic. Here the roads are not as advanced, huge machinery sits abandoned all along – the company that had the contract is on hold since the death of the father who owned the construction company.

As we come down into the Draa valley we observe an endless oasis that stretches alongside the Draa River – a vibrant green belt of palm trees, olive groves and crops. Here a single date palm can produce between 80 and 100 kg of dates each year.



Along the way we stop to visit two kasbahs – old castle-like structures built out of mud and straw that housed the nobles and their families and people. These were fortified so they could be defended. The walls are very thick and therefore they are refreshingly cool inside. They are large complexes that held many people inside with towers and turrets and beautifully ornate doors and windows.

 

Finally we arrive in Zagora and into the dessert. Here we leave Brahim and our driver to continue in with our packs and we mount our camels – these poor creatures are showing the wear of a life in the hot desert sun. Our camel driver, a withered old man in a dusty white tunic, helps us mount the camels caravan style – tied one to another in a single file row – and we begin.  

The sun is low in the sky, it is around 5:00 and the air is somewhat cooler – probably only in the low 30’s by now- and we make our way into the desert and toward our camp. As we proceed the sun sets behind us. We stop to take photos.

When we arrive at camp it is dusk and we are shown to our tents. These are very rudimentary Berber tents, meant to be as authentic as possible. I think the achieved this. The shell is a patchwork of woolen blankets – black ones- in this heat!!. There is a single overhead light and a central bathroom/shower room. But there is a lovely central sort of courtyard with small tables and chairs and comfy banquettes we can relax on. And a large campfire area to gather around after dinner.

There is a dining tent where we have dinner – chicken tagine that is so juicy and flavourful. It is already late by the time we finish dinner and we have another early start tomorrow.

At 5:00 we meet for breakfast and then hike up the ridge to watch the sun rise before we mount our camels and ride back out of the desert.

Of course that means another very long day of driving back to Marrakesh, but well worthwhile. 

Afterall, we rode camels in the Sahara and slept under the stars in a Berber desert camp!!!

How cool is that!   One more day as we head to Casablanca before we head home. 

Come With Me.....